Lost In Translation: Bingsoo In February

I'd like to say that I thought that ice would be less frigid in Korean.

The truth is that I wasn't thinking at all.

We ate Chinese-Korean for dinner on Saturday night.  (More on that another day.)  We saved room for frozen yogurt, but when we walked outside, we knew it was too cold.  So we headed to Bon Appetit Bakery on Rte 40 for something that wasn't ice cream.

Somehow, I ended up with a bowl of ice.

We grabbed a bag of cookies to take home.  For dessert on the spot, we looked at all the cakes.  Then I got overly excited and remembered that Bon Appetit serves bingsoo.  Bingsoo is a Korean dessert made with shaved ice, milk, and fruit.  I ordered my first red bean bingsoo without really thinking, and we ended up at a table waiting for our dessert.

I got a bowl of ice bigger than the dinner that I had just eaten.  The young woman delivered it with two spoons and a quizzical look.  She poured a little chocolate sauce.  When we started to spoon up raw ice with chocolate powder, she suggested that everything be mixed together.  (Duh!!)  You mix from the botton, and up comes mochi, red beans, a syrup, fruit, ice and milk.

Within minutes, I had basically a sweet soup.  The flavor was sweet like chocolate. The texture was a big more exotic.  It's actually red beans, ice, mochi and canned fruit.  Nothing weird, but not exactly a banana split.  You get the chocolate flavor with the chewy mochi and shaved ice.  Canned fruit isn't my favorite, but it worked.  One bingsoo would serve two or three people.

Within minutes, it had me shivering in my chair.  Bon Appetit sells beautiful cakes, and the room filled with people eating cake and drinking hot coffee.  Coffee because it was a late February night.  Everyone in the room had a cup of coffee.  I was spooning ice into my mouth.

About this point, we started to laugh.  We imagined the young woman wondering why we'd ordered bingsoo in the cold and why we didn't know to mix it up.  We imagined these guys sipping coffee wondering why I was eating a summer dessert.  It seemed rude to leave a half-full dessert, so I kept eating.  We kept giggling.  It was only afterwards that I checked Wikipedia:

Patbingsu or patbingsoo (팥빙수) is a very popular snack/dessert in South Korea, especially during the sweltering and humid summer season.

"Sweltering and humid summer season."  Read that again?  Put Bon Appetit on your summer calendar to try your own bingsoo.

Link: David's Natural Market Central To On-Going Plan To Raze And Renovate Wilde Lake Center

David's Natural Market would be the featured store in a razed and rebuilt Wilde Lake village center, according to a plan discussed in the Sun's Sunday edition.

The article discusses a hearing about the owner's plans to knock down the shuttered Giant and rebuild the shopping center.  Larry Carson wrote about local residents who want a supermarket, but the owner says the current space is too small for modern grocery stores.

Link: R&R Tacos In Wall Street Journal (Really!)

R&R Taqueria made the Wall Street Journal -- the last entry in a "Food and Drink" summary of tacos in gas stations.

Katy McLaughlin wrote up tacos from Texas, Georgia, Portland and Elridge.  Whoops.  Elkridge.  You need to hit up R&R at the Shell Station at U.S. 1 and Rte 175 in Elkridge.  Click for all the HowChow posts on R&R Taqueria.

Thanks to Marty Katz who posted a link on the HowChow Facebook page.

Athar Khan ("Columbia Bike Guy") on HoCo360

If you live in Howard County, take a few minutes to enjoy HoCo360's post about Athar Khan -- the "Columbia Bike Guy."

This kind of creation is journalism, and it's difficult.  It takes skill with a camera and words.  It also takes time -- hours to create and (I'd argue) years of living to understand the full story.  If you want to write about a place, this should be your goal.  A stream of opinions makes us bloggers; telling someone else's stories makes us useful.

CSAs In Howard County 2011: You Need To Love Your Community Supported Agriculture

You need to love your CSA because it's more than food -- it's a relationship.

"Community supported agriculture" is basically farms that pre-sell a season of vegetables.  It's for people who want to something more than food.  They want local food or organic food or just the adventure of a "surprise me" box of food each week.

In Howard County, you have a huge variety of local options.  You sign up.  You pick up through the season.  You get what ripened that week.   The beauty of CSAs is that the food is constantly different.

The challenge of CSAs is that all CSAs are different as well.  Some are expensive.   Some are veggie-only.  Some add breads and even meats.   Some have great food.  Some don't.  Last year, we split a share with RDAdoc that didn't really work out.  This year, we're going to try Gorman Farms in Laurel.  We're hoping for a more-exotic mix and a little adventure.

Gino's New Franchisees Live In Howard County, But They're Aiming To Open In Balt. County First

The guys bringing Gino's Burgers & Chicken back to the Baltimore suburbs are from Woodbine -- but they're aiming to open first in Baltimore County, reports Richard Gorelick on Dining at Large.

How about some Howard County loyalty?  We have so much burger love to share!  Think close to home!  Oh, well.  They own their home county too, so those onion rings should be here eventually.

Hand-Torn Noodle Soup At Han Joon Kwan

Another bowl of soup for my "to do list" -- and I haven't gotten to the hot pot that Min wrote about earlier this month.

Now she has returned to the Korean restaurants on Rte 40, particularly to Han Joong Kwan at the end of a shopping center west of Rte 29:

Windy days call for comfort foods. 

We went to Han Joong Kwan for steamy hot noodle soups. I ordered #36 Sam Sun Jam Bong (Spicy Seafood Noodle Soup), and our house guest was thrilled to see a special off-menu item posted on the wall -- Oyster Sujebi (hand torn noodles) for $10.55. Exactly what he was craving for. Also ordered was #32 plain Ja Jang Myun . All were good.  

The service was nice and fast. Though it was past 1pm on a Saturday, the place was half full but still considerably quiet. Most of the tables occupied were families with children. It's a very family friendly spot. We will certainly go back. HJK is now on my list of noodle soup places.

If you want to check out the Korean restaurants on Rte 40, you should click on my outsiders summaries or Kevin's hilarious insider post.  If you're trying to stay warn, definitely try the soon doo boo stew at Lighthouse Tofu.

Sushi Sono Switches Out The Sunshine Roll For A Secret #14 Roll -- Similar, But BBQ Sauce

Sushi Sono continues to alter its roll line-up -- this time replacing my favorite sunshine roll that arrived in 2010 with a similar (but secret) #14 roll.

The #14 has the same roll ingredients, but the mango sauce has been replaced by BBQ sauce and green onions, reports Kyle's Secret Agent.  The sushi nugget roll that arrived with the sunshine roll has disappeared from the menu, but it is still available by request.

Penzeys In Rockville: Why 355 Is The Spice Road

Penzeys spices.  I lost all my photos to a
cracked phone.  Luckily, I had Kyle's
photo from his guest post about "freekah."

Five hundred years ago, people caravaned across Asia for less spice than Penzeys offers in a strip mall in Rockville.  All you need to do is cut west on Rte 28.

I went to Penzey's with low expectations.  People raved about it, but I think I imagined some snobby joint with snobby prices.  Actually, I went to Penzeys by accident.  We just saw the storefront on Rockville Pike, and I thought, "It's on Rockville Pike?  This must be different than I expected."

It is different than any store that I have ever shopped.

Penzy's fills a room with spices.  Some mixes.  Tons of individual spices.  You can smell and sample everything, so the room billows with scents and flavors that should excite anyone who likes to cook good food.

Frankly, the selection overwhelmed me.  You see powder spices, whole spices, entire dried peppers, and extracts like vanilla, lemon or orange.  I couldn't decide what to buy -- whether to get my everyday stuff like cumin and pepper or get exotics like kala jeera and espazote.  So I bought too much.  Curry powder, rosemary, cardamon, two kinds of cinnamon . . . .

AYCE Sushi And Korean At The Kimko Buffet

Kyle tried the Korean sushi lunch buffet at Kimko after reading Min's report on the all-you-can-eat option.  That was part of a two-post discussion of Korean joints along Rte 40 in Ellicott City.  Kyle hit Kimko, and he was impressed.

My other Korean sushi buffet place is Gah Rham in Beltsville. They're both similar and worth doing, but I appreciated the Kimko spread better.  I think I was the only non-Korean there but they seemed to take a little better care of me. I was asked several times if everything was ok or if I needed anything. My main server was raised in HoCo.

Korean sushi buffets seem to follow the same layout. The previous Korean Howchow post did a good job of explaining the Korean food part of the kimko buffet. But how do you eat fried rice with chopsticks? This is not the kind of place you ask for a fork, though I'm pretty sure they would of given me one.  This day's buffet was light on noodle dishes. The only one was a salad noodle combo that was very good. The spicy food was not very spicy except for the killer raw green hot pepper half in one of the dishes.

The sushi component consisted of four different trays of raw fish on rice at the top level and over a dozen and a half sliced rolls  on shelves below.   There were vegetarian, raw fish, and cooked fish rolls. Several were in the fancy category with or without a tempura component. They were all labeled, but the fancy rolls were just labeled special. You have to guess at the contents. You use tongs supplied in a container at the beginning to select individual slices. The variety is overwhelming.  It's fun to watch how many slices a person  can stack on one plate. Personally I go lighter on the sushi (one layer not touching) and heavy on Korean food (it can touch).  This isn't Sushi King or Sushi Sono, but it's decent.  

I'm not a good person to judge quality. I don't even know the names of this stuff but I did like everything. The Korean food was not labeled.  I'll go back again and I'll keep recommending the buffet. 

Kimko's buffet is $11.95 and runs 11-3 weekdays.   Kimko's is on Rte 40 at Bethany Lane.  It used to be called Bethany Seafood.

Crisis Question: Where Is The Best Takeout 2011? My Week-Long List Without Pizza Or Chinese

Where do you get the best takeout in Howard County?  It is a crisis question for Lyss who posted that she is renovating her kitchen and can't cook at all.  Below is a week of suggestions, not religiously the best but certainly a delicious week:

• Indian at House of India or Mango Grove both in Columbia -- mango lassi, naan, baighan bartha and either a chicken curry (at HoI) or dal makhani (at MG).  You could easily add a dish or two and eat a second day.  If you have a toaster or oven, consider frozen naan from one of the Indian markets.  
• Sandwiches from Bon Fresco Sandwich Bakery in Columbia.  I love the Capri or the hot corned beef.  I have also asked them to personalize the turkey by garnishing it with roasted vegetables and tapanade.

A Meat Manifesto (Care of HoCoVittles) And Questions About Wagon Wheel Ranch

If you're the type of person who wants to eat local, then you have to love Twitter and HocoVittles -- who joined a recent Twitter conversation on the subject with a link to a 44-page pamphlet about Maryland meat producers.

The University of Maryland publishes the listing, which provides an animal-by-animal breakdown of farms.  You get a few words about their methods and then contact information.  The local joints include lamb, beef, pork, and more at Smallsville in Clarksville, Clark's Never Sell The Land Farm in Ellicott City and Woodcamp Farm and Wagon Wheel Ranch in Mt. Airy.

Does anyone know the Wagon Wheel Ranch?  It is listed as selling all kinds of meat.  The Web site suggests that you place an order in the spring, then wait until they raise and butcher the animal.  Anyone done this?

(Update: Check out the comments, including a link to Eat Wild that includes more information.)

Mom's Organic Market: Your Place To Bring Bittman's Book And Add New Stuff To Your Plate

I'm not a natural follower of the natural markets -- too suspicious of supplements and packaged food to flock to the organic joints.

But I'm being converted to Mom's Organic Market in Jessup -- by the selections and by its location in the midst of good food.

Anyone willing to make an effort for food in Howard County should know the organic markets -- David's Natural in Columbia, Roots in Clarksville, and Mom's (formerly My Organic Market) in Jessup.  Yet for years, they weren't places that I visited in depth.  So many aisles dedicated to vitamins, expensive packaged brands, and what I'll call "no" foods -- no gluten, no sugar, no meat . . .

I want "yes" food.  Delicious food.  Happy food, and I was pushed to open my eyes at Mom's by Mark Bittman and Frank's Seafood.

Bittman and friends got me back on a kick of whole grains and beans.  The organic markets offer bulk aisles of brown rice, amaranth, bulgar, quinoa and more.  I experimented by taking a few cups at a time and cooking my way through books like Super Natural Cooking and Whole Grains Everyday.  They're the entry drug for healthy cooking.

Then Frank's got me to really look around.

P90 Noir: Another Food Voice For Howard County

If you're looking for local food blogs, check out the food posts on the new P90 Noir blog.  P90 writes generally -- touching on guitars, kids and music.  He has posted some recipes for pancakes and red pepper sauce, and he promises grilling as the weather warms.

If you haven't already, you should also click on the food posts from the Swim Write Run blog.  Latest installment was a head-to-head battle of enchiladas by guest-poster Jeff -- El Hidalgo vs. Azul 17 vs. El Nayar.

Wine In The Museum, Beer At Woodberry Kitchen, And Great Sage Wins On Public TV

Science Uncorked -- Wine and food for adults at the Maryland Science Center on February 24, 2011.  They're concentrating on syrah and punned a name "Que Syrah Shiraz."  Tickets are $50, $45 for members.

The Bitch At Woodberry Kitchen -- Beer from the Flying Dog brewery with a special menu from the Woodberry kitchen on March 7, 2011.  "Feasting-style."  Not sure what that means, but I'd eat anything from Woodberry Kitchen.  I love their Raging Bitch India Pale Ale, but you'll get seasonal and limited release beers.  Tickets are $95.

Maryland Public Television creates a "Viewer's Choice Dining Guide" to insert in its March program guide.  They list more than 800 restaurants, and Great Sage won for "Best Vegetarian."  For a copy of the guide, call MPT at 1-800-522-8915.

Pudgies Opened Thursday In Clarksville

Pudgies Pizza and Subs opened Thursday in Clarksville, according to a comment from Rob.  This is a small New York and Pennsylvania chain.  Anyone been yet?

(Update: Hoco Rising has the first reviews -- pizza that he loved in college, described as garlicky and flavorful but not for people who demand a crisp crust.)

Tres Leches Cake At Cuba De Ayer

Mrs. HowChow doesn't like cake, but we both love the tres leches cake at Cuba de Ayer in Burtonsville.

Cuba de Ayer bakes their cakes and then bathes them (I assume) in the traditional mix of milk, condensed milk and evaporated milk.  The cake soaks up the liquid and cream.

There is a magic spot where you're moister than bread pudding or French toast, but not so wet that the dessert becomes soggy and collapses.  At Cuba de Ayer, nothing falls apart.  The tres leches cake just becomes moist and creamy, firm enough to stand but soft enough that a spoon scoops everything up.

Top that with whipped cream, and it's a decadent dessert even though it isn't as sweet as chocolate or many other options.  You're not going to do better than a simple meal of Cuban sandwiches and a tres leches cake.

New Kosher Deli To Open In Maple Lawn

A new deli apparently called Pita & Rye will open this spring in the Maple Lawn development -- and I hear talk that it will be a kosher establishment.

The deli part came right from the Maple Lawn developer's newsletter that mentioned a deli with details to come.  After an early version of this post, an anonymous reader found a Web site for Pita & Rye, which advertises a "New York style deli and grill" coming to Maple Lawn in May.  The address suggests that it is replacing the closed Pizza Fresca.

Their menu lists deli sandwiches, gyros, falafel and more.  It even mentions potato, spinach and kasha knishes.  No mention of kosher on the Web site, but I have heard that twice.

Thanks for the comments and Web searches!  Please tell me more if you know more.  I'm excited by the thought that a kosher place will get interesting stuff -- either by making it or by bringing down good stuff from New York.

Fruit Tarts From Bonaparte Bread

The '34 Act Gourmet can bring home the bacon and roast it up in a pan.  But he also knows how to buy himself a gourmet dish -- especially a nice dessert.

Twice over the last months, he has picked up fruit tarts at Bonaparte Bread in Savage, and they've been hits both on his table and when he brought them to our friend's house for dinner:

Generally speaking, I hate most fruit. I will eat it, but only reluctantly and after much nagging from the wife. The problem I have with fruit is not the taste but the texture; I just don't like it regardless of how organic or fresh the fruit may be.

Obviously, I'm not the first person you would think to rush out and buy a fruit tart. However, when I was short on ideas of what to bring for dessert to a dinner party, at the suggestion of a friend, that's exactly what I did.

The fruit tart came from Bonaparte Bread, which has locations in Baltimore and in the Savage Mills shopping center. The day before I needed the tart, I called to place the order. The staff was friendly and helped me select an appropriate size for the tart based on the number of guests at the party. The tart was ready when I went to pick it up after work the next day and looked wonderful.

Despite my aversion to most fruit, I thoroughly enjoyed the tart. The custard was firm and not too sweet. The crust was delicious, almost cookie-like, and the bakers had applied a thin layer of dark chocolate to the crust to prevent the custard from making it soggy. The fruit on the tart also were firmer than fresh fruit and didn't have the texture I normally dislike about fresh fruit. The only negative to the tart was figuring out how to cut it given the freshness and strength of the crust but trust me this is a very small negative. I've gotten the tart for a second dinner party since the first time and it was a big hit again.

It's the chocolate crust that makes Bonparte's tart such a smart dessert.  It's delicious, and the crust stays crisp.  It's like a shortbread and still crisp hours after it has been picked up, carried home, and sliced up.

Food Matters Cookbook By Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman has finally started to make things up, and he could change your life -- or least your pantry and freezer.

Three of Bittman's cookbooks are stalwards on my cookbook shelf, but it's his new Food Matters Cookbook where he invents dishes from scratch to change the way you eat.

Before we get serious, let's start with a basic pitch:  Buy -- or borrow -- the Food Matters Cookbook because it's delicious.  Straight-forward recipes to jazz up your weeknights.  Easy ideas about using your freezer to turn one afternoon of work into days of great food.  If you value fresh food, then you'll treasure this cookbook.

If nothing else, get Food Matters to break your rut of jarred pasta sauce.  Bittman does 60+ pages of noodles inspired by everything from classics to Mexican flavors, paired with everything from fennel to artichokes, from a basic lasagna to an inspired cabbage-oranges-and-chickpeas.  Flavors, imagination and enough 30-minute ideas that you'll add something to your repertoire.