Grilled Halloumi At Pars And Nazars: Start Your Summer With The Cheese That You Can Grill

Grilled halloumi with pomegranate molassas

Ladies and gentlemen, start your grills.  Summer is here, and the first thing that you should throw over the coals is . . . cheese.

Not a cheese burger.  Not cheese melting on top of something else.  You need to cut half-inch slices of cheese, drop them on the grill, and let them brown for a few moments on each side.

To pull this off, you need to buy yourself the right cheese.  That's halloumi cheese, a brined white cheese so firm that it keeps its shape even over fire.

A spectacular, simple dish:  Halloumi cheese sliced about a half-inch thick.  Grilled for 2-3 minutes per side until the faces have browned slightly.  Then topped with a few lines of pomegranate molasses.  The sweet, rich molasses contrasts with the salty, warm cheese.  With just a block of cheese and a bottle of molasses, you can create an exotic appetizer or start an easy dinner.

Check out both the cheese and the molasses at the Persian Pars Market or the Turkish Nazar Market -- both near Snowden River Parkway in Columbia.

Of course, that's just a start.  We ate halloumi at Zaytinya in Washington, and it was amazing.  Probably pan-seared, which also makes a crisp, warm layer of cheese.  Then augmented with sliced dates, citrus and mint.  Search "halloumi recipe," and you'll find all kinds of ideas -- halloumi in salads, on burgers, or even serving as the "bread" in a grilled sandwich with a white bean paste inside.

If you're grilling, check out the butchers at Pars and Nazar for ground lamb.  Check out the entire Grilling Week series from 2010 that paired local ethnic groceries with Steven Raichlen's Planet Barbecue.  And you could call the markets before you visit.  Pars sells the cheese so quickly that they were out this weekend.  They get more all the time.

Return Of The Best Candy In Howard County

Pistachio nougat at Turkish Family Market

Pistachio nougat was one of my first HowChow finds, and it remains one of the easiest treats to grab at a Middle Eastern market.

My original source closed in Elkridge, but I found a new supplier at the newish Turkish Family Market just off Rte 40 in Ellicott City.

This is pure pistachio nougat.  Chewy rectangles of candy studded with bright green nuts.  You get sweetness and crunch.  It doesn't have the rose flavor from the Fard brand that I used to buy, and I have to say that I may like pure pistachio even better.  (And it's another chance for me to convince Wordbones, who didn't love.)

Seriously, this nougat is delicious.  Pieces come individually-wrapped, so it's a great little treat.  It's unique enough to be a hostess gift, especially if you transfer the candy into something nicer than a plastic clamshell.

The Turkish Family Market opened in 2011, but it's pretty new to me.  They have a butcher and a variety of fresh and canned goods similar to Nazar Produce Market in Columbia.

Turkish Family Market
8457 Baltimore National Pike (Rte 40)
Ellicott City, MD 21043
410-750-0679

NEAR:  Turkish Family Market is just off Rte 40 east of Rte 29 a few doors down from the C&B Italian Delly.  The shopping center has some stores actually facing Rte 40, then some behind those. Turkish Family Market is in the back section. You actually need to turn south off Rte 40, then turn into the parking lot.

Another Vote For Rudy's Doner Kebab -- And News About The Menu And Upcoming Falafel

Doner platter at Rudy's

When I eat meat, I want something special on the plate, and Rudy's Mediterranean Grill in Columbia roasts doner kebab that made my cut with its crisp edges and rich flavor.  HowChow reader Rob stopped by recently to enjoy a meal and chatted with Rudy himself.  Rob learned that Rudy has a Turkish brunch on Sundays.  He also got another lesson for eaters that discount sites are a complex issue for restaurants -- and some news about falafel:

I stopped in after having purchased a Groupon ($15 for $30 in food).  By the way, something to remember that I keep forgetting is that Groupons are usually for dine-in only.  I spoke with Rudy for a few minutes.  He is a little distressed about the Groupon deal.  He wanted Groupon to sell perhaps 50 per week, not the approximately 600 they sold for Rudy's all at once. According to Rudy, he can only recoup his food cost on the $30 Groupons, but he actually loses on the $60 Groupons, so he is concerned about the number sold. 

Rudy is a very energetic, engaging guy.  He was very happy to talk about how the place is developing.  He brought me a bowl of red lentil soup while we sat at the bar and talked.  On tI tried the spanakopita (spinach pie on the menu), the doner kebab, and the izgara kofte.   

Next time, I'll probably skip the spanakopita.  The filo was soggy and a tad burnt on top.  But the  the doner kebab was probably as good as you are going to find in this state.  The lamb was moist and had the taste you expect in a doner or gyro.  Rudy pays a special chef who prepares his doner for the spit and also serves as a line cook.  He does not allow his other cooks to do anything other than slice the lamb for serving. The izgara kofte is a little different than kofte I have tried before, but is very good.  He puts peppers in the meat, so the kofte has a kick.  Other places put the meat on a skewer so it comes out elongated when pulled off.  Rudy's kofte are like small hamburger patties.  I recommend it. 

I also talked to Rudy about the menu.  Seems I am not the only one who wants to see only Turkish dishes on it.  Rudy has American fare on the menu in order to capture as much of the lunch crowd as possible from the surrounding businesses.  I think he believes a Turkish-only menu would not do that for him.  However, as a result of comments from many customers, especially those who have visited Turkey or lived there, Rudy is going to split the menu.  In the mornings, the usual American breakfast dishes will be there.  At lunch, American and Turkish will be represented.  And Rudy will have a Turkish menu in the evening.  Rudy also plans to bring falafel to the menu in June due to numerous requests.

Rudy's is a place worth trying, but check out comments and Yelp to see what you think you would like.  Kevin wrote a comment this morning that discussed which dishes his family enjoyed and which dishes disappointed them.  Kevin's wife actually thought the doner was bland.

Doner Kebab At Rudy's Mediterranean

Doner platter at Rudy's

Doner kebab is one of those dishes that you can find all around the world because it satisfies carnivores across cultures.

It's a Turkish cousin to the shwarma or gyro.  A roasted meat cooked on a vertical spit, then carved off in slices that run from a crispy edge to a moist interior.  The Turks have spread them across Europe, and Rudy's Mediterranean has brought them to Columbia.

The 2 Dudes Who Love Food blog were the first to write up Rudy's.  The dudes have eaten in Istanbul, and they said that they felt the place when they ate hummus, an eggplant salad, doner, a minced lamb kabob, and more.

I can't vouch for Rudy's authenticity, but I can vouch for the meat.  Bad gyros taste of the freezer or have monotonous flavor across the sandwich.  Rudy's "Iskender Kebab" dinner tastes sliced for the order.  The edges are crisp, and the meat has a rich flavor without being greasy.  With the pita bread and the garlicy yogurt sauce, it's delicious and definitely the taste of a kitchen trying to do something unusual.

Turkish coffee

Rudy's is a relatively new place that serves a massive menu.  They do a full American or diner selection plus the Turkish offerings.  We enjoyed our other entree, which was roasted eggplant topped with meat and tomato sauce.  They serve a nice basic rice and a fresh salad with every meal.  (I would pass on the stuffed grape leaves, which were limp and tasted like nothing more than rice.)

Reviews on Urbanspoon and Yelp are as wide as the menu.  Some talk up the breakfast, the lentil soup, the rice pudding; others weren't happy at all.  I really recommend the doner.  That's the kind of meat that makes me want to splurge.  They serve a wrap for lunch and a few entrees at dinner.  I hope you can just get a sandwich with pita and the doner meat.

One bonus: Rudy's serves Turkish coffee as part of its dinner entrees.  It's fun.  It's tiny cups of strong coffee.  Definitely a touch -- like the free green tea at Sushi Sono -- that helps to create a special feel.

Rudy's Mediterranean Grill
7185 Columbia Gateway Drive
Columbia, MD 21046
410-290-2004

NEAR:  Rudy's is easy to reach even though you can't see it from the road.  It's just south of Rte 175 on Columbia Gateway Drive.  (That's the signs that I thought meant "Colonel Gateway Drive" for years.)  You curve a bit to get there.  Follow the knife and fork signs and then turn right up into a shopping center.  The same center has the Flavors of India restaurant as well.

What The Heck Is Freekeh? Or "How To Find Ingredients When The Grocer Doesn't Know Them"

I'm not the only one who loves Nazar Market in Columbia.  Since the Turkish market opened this year, I have found myself a regular for meat, breads, snacks and lots of ingredients.  (Click here for all the Nazar posts.)

So has Kyle.  The regular HowChow contributor has been working through some Turkish food, and he finds -- as I have -- that the guys who sell ethnic groceries rarely actually cook with the ethnic groceries.  They're shopkeepers, not cooks.  But Kyle has kitchen skills, so he went from recipe to freekeh to pilaf:

Back in September, the Washington Post food section did a front-page article with back-page recipes on Turkish cooking. So I naturally thought of Nazar. Even though I already had a lot of Turkish ingredients, there were some I did not have. So off to Nazar I went with paper in hand. I wanted to make the Post's green wheat pilaf.

The recipe called for some unique ingredients:  freekeh, Aleppo pepper, red pepper paste and coarse bulgur. I already had Aleppo pepper from Penzeys (internet or trip to Rockville), which was good because Nazar didn't stock it.  It's slightly chewy and oily with a nice burn. I think the Maras pepper is the best substitute to be found at Nazar's.  Both Nazar and I have coarse bulgur (also known as bulgur #3 or #4), so my search was for red pepper paste and freekeh.

At Nazar, my usual guy wasn't working, but two new ones were. I told them I was looking for roasted green wheat, freekeh. You gotta love an ingredient that has "freak" in the name plus a smokey taste. First stumbling block: These Turkish guys had no idea what I was talking about.  I had to show them the recipe. They ended up recommending peeled wheat based on the picture. I was pretty sure that was wrong and picked up a bag labeled "firik bulgur (firik wheat)." They weren't sure what that was but again recommended the peeled wheat. They had no problem finding the red pepper paste. It's called "Biber Salcasi (mild pepper paste)."

When I got home, I looked up freekeh  and, lo and behold, the Turkish name for freekeh is firik. Apparently freekeh is the Arabic word -- a still more interesting than "firik." Back to Nazar I went later that week. My usual guy (I really should learn his name) was there, and I told him about my quest for freekeh aka firik. All he said was basically that he carries firik, people buy it, but he has no idea how you use it. I told him you make green wheat pilaf. He said that the Post was good for business since  he had three people buy red pepper paste in a single day.  They were making another recipe, green lentil soup with noodles and mint. Even though the Post recipes recommend Iranian markets, I had less luck at Pars Market down Snowden River Parkway.  I love the attitude of the guy who works there but they just don't have the variety of Nazar.

I guess Turkey is like America; one region may not know anything about ingredients in another region. Try looking for okra in New England. The green wheat pilaf was good. You could really taste the smoke. I didn't return the peeled wheat, I can make something  called noah's pudding with it. And you can make the green wheat pilaf recipe for yourself.

Honey-Nut Sundaes WIth Nazar's Balli Cerez

Repurpose some Turkish nut spread by using it to create a honey-nut sundae with vanilla ice cream.

The Omak brand balli cerez is a thick spread made of crushed nuts soaked in honey.  Crushed pistachios, walnuts, hazelnuts and more fill the small jars at Nazar Market in Columbia.  They're doused in honey, and I have no idea how Turkish people use them -- other than that they're a "snack," according to the guys at Nazar.

I used them as a sundae topping.  I spooned a few tablespoons over vanilla ice cream, then poured on a few tablespoons of honey because the balli cerez is more nut than sauce.  That made for an ice cream parlor dessert -- crunchy, sweet and way more natural than that Magic Shell that I loved as a kid.

Nazar Market has become a delicious source for unique items.  You get fresh meat -- including ground lamb -- from the halal butcher, along with many Turkish items that are great on their own or work well in recipes.  Plus, you can walk across the parking lot for a sandwich at Bon Fresco.  Check out all my Nazar posts.

Turkshish Kebap Replaces Cazbar in Columbia

The Cazbar Kebap House in Columbia appears to have been replaced by a new restaurant -- similar Turkish menu, but a new name Turkshish Kebap House, reports Kyle.

Turkshish appears to be a similar Mediterranean menu with an emphasis on Turkish food, but the new menu has different items and prices that are about 20% higher, says Kyle.  He couldn't tell if there was new management or not.

The Cazbar in Columbia had some relationship with the established Turkish restaurant in Baltimore.  The original Cazbar still has Web pages describing a Columbia location.  So I'm still figuring out what has happened.

Coffee Flavored Sparking Water At Nazar Market

Coffee-flavored soda is one of those ideas that would sound forced if I heard it from Coca-Cola but seemed rakishly exotic in a Turkish grocery store.

Sarikiz actually makes coffee-flavored mineral water -- along with a green bottle of the mineral water on its own.  It's a real coffee flavor in a small bottle.  Not the milkshake that Starbucks sells as a bottled frappachino.  It's a carbonated soft drink with the refreshing pull -- especially if you're just looking for something different like buying the Turkish sour cherry nectar and mixing it with sparkling water.

Nazar Market in Coumbia sells all of these items along with a variety of other Turkish, Middle Eastern and Persian foods.  Consider checking out their refrigerator to accompany a sandwich from Bon Fresco Sandwich Bakery, which sells spectacular sandwiches and breads right across the parking lot.

If nothing else, consider the bottles if you want a coversation starter for guests.  Nazar Market sells small cases along with the single bottles in the fridge.  The bottles -- with their small size, real bottle caps and Turkish provenance -- would add a little flair to a buffet or a dinner party, but still provide flavors that should please almost anyone.  I had meant to buy a case of the mineral water for Mrs. HowChow's office party, but I just realized that fell through the cracks when we hosted the party last month.

Ulkerin Chocolate Wafers At Nazar Market

I have been thinking about the sugar wafer cookies that I loved as a kid, but that turned out not to be so delicious.

Rectacular, waffled wafers with a chocolate cream -- or a white vanilla or a pink something else -- in the middle.  I remember loving them, but realizing later that the wafers were dry and the filing wasn't great.  This was about when I discovered Milanos and realized that I could afford adult cookies.

Now, I'm back to those sugar wafers thanks to a Turkish bar that took that cookie to the next level.  Ulkerin bars take those sugar wafers and fill them with a hazelnut cream.  Then the whole thing gets wrapped in chocolate.   It's halfway between a cookie and a candy bar.  I ate through an entire bite-sized bag of Ulkerin over the past three weeks.  Two bucks for a few dozen little bars that I tossed in lunches and chomped after dinner.

You can find the Ulkerin chocolate wafers at the Nazar Market in Columbia.  If you considered checking out the new Turkish market for the baklava, the sausages, or the ground lamb, then just go for the chocolates and see what else catches your eye.

Sour Cherry Nectar At Nazar Market

We stumbled on Turkish cherry nectar at the new Cazbar Kepab House in Columbia, and it has become a fun

Let's be honest: This isn't juice.  It's water, sugar, then sour cherry concentrate on the ingredient list.  But it's a cherry flavor just a touch sour enough to be unique.  It's more soft drink than a health food.

But it's a fine soft drink.  We first drank cherry nectar with sandwiches at Cazbar.  But Nazar Market in Columbia sells a bunch of varieties -- cans to drink right away or boxes that pour from the fridge.  Several brands, even other flavors of nectar like mango.  Definitely an easy buy if you're looking to check out Nazar for the first time.  Try it full strength.  Try it cut 50-50 with water for a lighter flavor.

Cazbar Kepab House in Columbia

Good food often comes without waiters in Howard County, and the new Cazbar Kabob continues the trend with casual Turkish that makes a great lunch or takeout in Columbia.

(Update: Cazbar appears to have been replaced in Fall 2010 with Turkshish Kebap.  New name.  New menu.)

Cazbar opened a few blocks east of Howard Community College and the hospital, offering a streamlined version of the original Baltimore location's menu.  This is hearty Turkish specialities like sour cherry soda and lahmacun (pizza with ground beef).  But much of the basics will please anyone who likes Maiwand Kabob -- grilled meats, vegetables and interesting bread.

Cazbar follows the Maiwand and Bon Fresco model -- casual counter service and fresh food, some unique ethnic items but accessible to almost anyone.  The basics are meat.  Kabobs of grilled meat.  Doner of seasoned sliced and pressed meat similar to gyros.  There are variations of chicken, lamb and beef.  Wrapped in thin bread as sandwiches.  Served with a yogurt sauce.  Paired with salad or fries.

After our lunch, we recommend the doner over the kabobs.  The lamb doner was tasty without being greasy.   The kabobs were moist, but not that flavorful.  Maiwand Kabob and Mimi's Kabob in Clarksville both marinate the chicken more, and the meat comes out more interesting.  Next time, Mrs. HowChow will try the chicken doner.  And go salad, not fries.  The fries were average.  The salad was crisp and interesting with a nice dressing on top.

Obviously, the difference between Turkish and Afghan cuisines is 2,200 miles.  Cazbar brings Turkish items like boat-shaped pizza called pide and a salad with tomatoes, pomegranate and peppers called acili ezme.  I'm ready to try every appetizer, from the hummus to the salad of feta and parsley.  The fresh salads are a revelation.  My favorite parts of the Afghan joints are cooked vegetable side dishes like pumpkin.  In contrast, Cazbar served up those fresh vegetables -- in the salad and in the sandwiches -- that really brought the meal alive.

Although I keep talking about meat, Cazbar is vegetarian friendly.  You could mix and match appetizers, or you could go with falafel instead of meat.  Also check out the drink options.  We really liked the Tamek sour cherry nectar -- basically an uncarbonated soft drink with a lightly sour taste.  (Also available at Nazar Market in Columbia.)  They import Turkish waters and a "carbonated coffee" that I'll get next time.


One cool touch at Cazbar:  Free hot tea in modern little cups.  To the left of the soda dispenser is a tea pot sitting on top of a hot water dispenser.  You use of the strainers to pour tea from the pot into your small cup -- but leave a little space.  The strainer will catch the loose tea.  If the brew has gotten too dark for you, you use the extra space to hot water.  Add sugar to taste.

Cazbar Kebap House
10840 Little Patuxent Parkway
Columbia, MD 21044
410-730-7900

NEAR: This is on the north side of Little Patuxent Parkway just east of Howard Community College.  From Rte 29, take Rte 175 west and pass the mall.  Keep going straight and look for Cazbar on the right just after the white building with the sign for Patuxent Publishing.  It is next to a bank in a shopping center that sits perpendicular to the road.

Soujouk at Nazar Produce

It is only with the upmost gravity that I compare anything favorably to bacon.

Ah, bacon. . .  The thick-cut bacon from one of Howard County's butchers is one of the best tasty treats that you can give yourself.  Two slices can turn breakfast or other dishes into something spectacular.  Now, you need to pick up Turkish soujouk from the Nazar Produce Market in Columbia.

Soujouk is one of the halal meats in Nazar's refrigerated section.  It's a spicy, dried beef sausage.  I wouldn't have known what to buy or cook except that the guy who cuts my hair turned me on to scrambled eggs with onions and soujok.  This is the Turkish bacon and eggs, and it is just as delicious.

Let's repeat:  Just as delicious as bacon.

I bought the soujouk that comes in six little salamis because Nazar's owner pointed out that you just use one at a time and save the rest.  (He says they last months.  So far, I'm eating through too fast to test that theory.)  You saute some onion in butter until it softens.  Peel the paper casing from the soujouk, then chop it and add to the onion.  In a few minutes, a light film of oil has rendered out, and you cook scrambled eggs.  Soujouk tastes of spice and meat.  Strong spice to balance the eggs with no risk of the fattiness or the burnt section that you can get from bacon.

One small salami serves a hardy breakfast for two.  You could add less, but it's like bacon.  You'll miss it when you scrimp.

(Update:  Mrs. HowChow correctly notes that today's photo is horrible.  But I'm snapping with a cell phone in our kitchen, and it would have been her eggs getting cold if I had stopped to run a photo shoot.  Trust me that the soujouk tastes better than I made it look -- and I'm always open to photographers who want to build clips by shooting for a blog.)

If you are going to Nazar, you have to try the baklava.  They generally have several varieties.  Ask for the burma or the saragi burma variations.  And check out HowICook's comment that includes discussion of Soujouk and other items you can buy at Nazar.