Surprise: I Went For Chicken Tenders And Went Back For Frisco Tap House's Ancho Glaze Wings

Ancho glaze wings at Frisco Tap House

Frisco Tap House has been many things in my decade in Howard County -- a Southwestern restaurant, a beer bar, a brewery.

Somehow, I was pleasantly surprised to discover my current favorite wings in Howard County when I stopped there for lunch.

Lil' Chow won't nap at home.  We've developed a pattern for weekends or other days without daycare.  We have morning fun, then eat lunch, then nap in the car.  For months, we looped and looped.  Now, I can stop driving once he falls asleep.

So I went to Frisco for the chicken and fries.  Lil' Chow requested a special treat, and I wanted somewhere new that would put a little extra effort into chicken tenders.  It was a complete bonus that my lunch had that extra effort as well.

This is part of a "Surprise" series that I'm writing as I try to start blogging again.  Come back for more in the next few days.

Lil' Chow's chicken and fries

Eight big meaty wings.  Or at least meaty half-wings.  Years ago, there were several local joints serving exceptional wings, but I'd given them up recently because they'd switched to tiny products that were mostly bone and skin.  Frisco sells wings as an appetizer, but they've been lunch twice for me.

Once, a Thai special.  Once, the regular ancho pepper glaze.  It's a real glaze, almost crunchy and nothing like the globs of barbecue sauce that I've seen over other plates.  The wings come slightly charred, crisp to the teeth and then moist inside.  I started to write myself a note that the wings were sweet, not spicy.  Then my lips started a warm tingle and I realized the ancho was doing its work.  There is skill in those wings, and they're one of those treats that I can't pull off in my own kitchen.

Frisco is a friendly place for lunch.  Half full on both of my recent visits.  Just enough conversation and noise to give the place some energy.  It's a nice escape from being trapped with a toddler, and even the young staff is personable.  One waiter played along when I deflected Lil's Chow's 10th question of "Where is our food now?"  The waiter explained the chicken and fries were cooking in the kitchen.  That finally satisfied the kid.  Well, that and the chicken tenders.

Where else do people recommend for wings these days?  Bon Chon Chicken in Ellicott City is my absolute favorite, but Korean fried chicken seems separate from the competition for wings.  The Town Grille in Lisbon guaranteed a Ravens Super Bowl with their special wings and a bunch of people commented on that 2013 post.  I've liked garam masala wings at Tandoor Grill on Johns Hopkins Road and the Old Bay Wings at Second Chance Saloon in Columbia.

Beer Spots Expanding From Howard County East

The beer expansion continues -- this time out of Howard County into the east.

Look for a new spot from the Alehouse Columbia folks to soft open in Anne Arundel County as early as this weekend.  I don't know the exact place.  I got a nice tip, and I have this new reason why I can't track down all the details.  I'm hoping someone will add the address as a comment below.

Also, the Frisco Tap House folks are opening a second location in Gambrills.  It's the Village at Waugh Chapel development, according to a report in the Capital Gazette.  I haven't blogged about Frisco in years, but it's a really great spot -- one of the original locations for craft beers in Howard County.  The Columbia location is definitely worth checking out for beer and food.  The latest talk was that the Gambrills location is aiming to open in November.

Link: Frisco Tap House To Start Brewing?

The Frisco Tap House in Columbia will start brewing its own beers -- with the name Push Brewing and images from bike racing -- according to a post on the Baltimore Beer Buy blog.  The blog is a key place to get local news on craft beers, and it says Frisco faces some administrative hurdles but plans to receive its brewing equipment in March.

The Sun Reviews Frisco Tap House, Then Just Starts Making Things Up About The Suburbs Because Who Is Going To Waste Their Time Actually Knowing About Food In The 'Burbs?

I can live with condescension about food in the suburbs, but the Sun could limit itself to insults that are actually based on the truth.

The Sun's Erik Maza reviewed the relocated Frisco Tap House on Dobbin Road in Columbia, and he liked the place.  He got in a clever dig about Frisco looking like a Chipotle, but then he paged through the Sun's manual for writing about Howard County and whipped out this paragraph:

Though there's not much near the bar — The Mall in Columbia is about five miles away — a drive here is worth it, and for Columbia residents, it's unlikely there's anything remotely as comprehensive around.

Seriously?  Two blocks from the new Frisco Tap is Sushi King, which is as good or better than any sushi in Baltimore, and, from the city, you have to drive past spectacular Indian.  You can pass an Akbar's, but that's fighting to be the third-best Indian in Columbia -- rather than being the top Indian on the Sun's Top 50 in Baltimore.  Anyone driving to Frisco should really stop for dosas at Mango Grove if they come from Rte 175 or House of India if they come from Rte 32.  That's not even mentioning the simpler sushi at Hanamura or sandwiches at Bon Fresco or the up-and-coming Indian at Royal Taj.

That's all within blocks of the new Frisco Tap.

Frisco Tap House To Open Tuesday Or Wednesday

The new Frisco Tap House in Columbia looks to be opening Tuesday or Wednesday.

That's what the sign says, according to Lanny who posted a picture.  The former Frisco Grille is getting the final inspections done on its new Dobbin Road location.  For up-to-the-minute updates, check out the Baltimore Beer Guys tweets.

Sneak Peak of The New Frisco Grill On BBG Blog

The new Frisco Tap Room will be even-cooler than I expected.

The Baltimore Beer Guy posted a nine-minute video with an interview of Frisco's owner Adam and tour of the new Columbia restaurant -- 50-tap bar, pizza oven, on-site brewery, 21-foot community table, private dining room . . . .  It's still under-construction, but the latest word is that they'll open in early December.  Check out the video.

Is Frisco Tap Room Still Set To Move Next Week?

Anyone know when the new Frisco Tap Room will open -- and usher in a new era for the craft beer and burrito scene that started at Frisco Grille & Cantina?

The word on Twitter in early November was that Frisco was targeting Thanksgiving for the move.  They're going to have more space and even more options for interesting beers and southwestern food.  People rave about everything from the brew to the children's menu.  Once they're open, I want to update the post about beers.

(Update: See the comments below.  The Baltimore Beer Guy says the latest word was that the current location will close in November and the new one will open in early December.  Check below for more.)

Trolling: Cheese Enchiladas, Spicy Tuna Rolls And A Key Lime Cupcake The Fiancee Doesn't Share

Jessica trolls Howard County with her fiancee and talks up the good and bad.  Her inspiration for emailing me was a lunch at Frisco Grille & Cantina where she heard that the plan to move down Dobbin Road been slightly delayed.  Permit issues.  Now, they're thinking that the new location will open in late October or early November at the earliest.

That means that Jessica will have a few more beer and enchilada meals at the original Frisco.  She won't be going back to Cazbar.  I liked the lamb donor, but Jessica didn't like her vegetarian meal.  Thin bread, off flavors, slow service, and hummus that tasted to her just like chick peas that had been boiled and blended.  "I've made better hummus at home, and I'm not the world's best cook," she says.  Bummer for Cazbar because Jessica is learning Tukish food from her fiancee's family.  She says she'll drive to Arlington for Atilla's.  But when she wants local food, she starts out on Stanford Boulevard in Columbia:

The cheese enchilada grilled spicy at Frisco's with a good hefeweizen (or Resurrection, if there is no hefe on the menu that week).  I like to mix my genres, in this case with Mexican food and German beer.  The outside of the enchiladas are always grilled perfectly- not soggy but never overcooked and rubbery.  The inside is a warm, gooey, cheesy delight, and when grilled spicy it has just the right amount of kick.  It comes with sour cream, guacamole, salsa, and shredded lettuce, and I clean the plate every single time.  I've never had a bad meal at Frisco Grille, but once I tried the cheese enchiladas, I have never had a desire to order anything else.  And of course a refreshing hefeweizen just helps balance out the intense heat from the sriracha sauce.

Regardless of what anyone else thinks of it, Hanamura in Columbia is my favorite HoCo sushi joint mostly for one reason: the spicy tuna rolls.  I'm boring and like to go with the standard rolls, and Hanamura makes the best.  The spicy tuna roll has the perfect ratio of salty, tender fish to mildly sweet rice to icky-but-necessary seaweed, and unlike at Sushi King, it's actually SPICY.  There's definitely a theme running through this post: I like my food to be almost unbearably spicy, or as my friend puts it, unbearably awesome.  And these spicy tuna rolls qualify.  Plus the service at Hanamura is better than at Sushi King (never been to Sushi Sono), it's cheaper, and there's never a wait for a table.  Three thumbs up in my book.

And to prove that I occasionally eat somewhere other than Stanford Blvd. (and something other than spicy food), I'll talk for a moment about Touche Touchet in Columbia.  I had learned of this bakery and Oh What a Cake from HowChow.  I tried Oh What a Cake a few months ago and was completely underwhelmed.  I finally had an occasion to try Touche Touchet a few weeks ago, and the story was completely different.  The key lime cupcake (with key lime filling, no less) was light, fluffy, and moist all at the same time, with a tart flavor from the frosting and filling that gave my face just the right amount of pucker.  It was also the perfect size- big enough for multiple heavenly bites, but not so big that you're sick of eating it when you're only halfway through it.  And not so big that I would feel compelled to share one with my fiancee.  I wish I could say I would go back and try something different, but that key lime cupcake would be hard to top.

Trolling on Tuesday is my attempt at a series where readers would share three things with other HowChow readers -- favorite restaurant dishes, food to buy, food experiences, etc.  Click here for all the Trolling posts.  Click here for the explanation and the rules.  Anyone can submit.


(Update: Check out the link below that Ocelots provided to a Touche Touchet birthday cake.  That's terrific.)

Link: The BBG Pushing The Food At Frisco

The Baltimore Beer Guy had a funny story about Frisco Grille and more suggestions about reasons to go *eat* at Columbia's key craft beer bar.  Check out the BBG post.

Link: Frisco Grille Is Moving And Expanding

Frisco Grille -- the Columbia beer bar and southwestern restaurant -- is moving down Dobbin Road and doubling in size, according to the the Baltimore Beer Guy.  Check out the BBG post with all the details and look for the new location in late spring or early summer.

"Secret" Menu At Frisco Grille

The Baltimore Beer Guy tipped me to Frisco Grille's secret menu back when I was bemoaning the fact that Hunan Legend's secret menu wasn't a secret anymore now that I had circulated a translation and the owners had done their own.

To truly parallel the Chinese "secret" menu at Hunan Legend, Frisco's menu would only be readable by people with a slight beer buzz. But the "secret" menu is actually handed to everyone as a little sheet titled "adaptions and new items." Anyone can ask for specials like buffalo chili and a flank steak sandwich with chipotle barbeque sauce, sriracha sauce, avocado and goat cheese.

I have had Gus' Green Tacos -- firm white fish sauted in a mixture of tomatillo sauce and the house-made green hot sauce. It's a nice taco, and I especially liked the mango salsa on the side. I always love food that surprises me. I don't know that I would have ordered tacos with a creamy sauce lined across them. But Gus' Green Tacos had a really nice balance -- little

creamy, little lime-sour and just enough heat to be refreshing. That's a nice addition to a restaurant that serves a southwestern menu with highlights in the burritos and the pub items like onion rings and a unique spicy mustard. The food compliments a beer selection that is more curated and aimed to please beer aficiandos.

Most of the Frisco Grille secret menu is modifications of the regular menu, and they warn that they're mostly served spicy. I doubt they're hitting the heights of the Two Youngs' soon du bu, but that Adam Bowl lists chipotle, two hot sauces and spicy mustard in a single dish.

As the BBG reported last week, Frisco Grille is expanding into the tailor next door. They'll double their beer taps from 20 to 40. (Still no reliable report about where the tailor is going.)

Frisco Grille is one of Howard County best places for beer in Howard County. It is also in a shopping center with several strong places, including Hanamura, Riverside Coffee, Noodles Corner and Pub Dog. Great place to check out some casual food.

Frisco Grille & Cantina

8865 Stanford Boulevard

Columbia, MD 21045

410-312-4907

NEAR: Frisco Grille is off Dobbin Road south of Rte 175 in a shopping center with Pub Dog. From the north, take Rte 175 and turn south on Dobbin Road at the intersection with a Chik-fil-A and a Kmart. The shopping center is on the left after the second light. From the south, take Snowden River Parkway and turn left on McGaw Road at the light with Apple Ford. Turn right at the light with Dobbin, then look for the shopping center on the right.

Frisco Grille To Expand, Says BBG Blog

Frisco Grille in Columbia will expand and double its beer taps from 20 to 40, according to the Baltimore Beer Guy blog. No firm date, but it's a big plus for one of Howard County's best places for beer.

(Update: The BBG says in a comment below that Frisco is taking over a tailor next door.)

Frisco Grille Was Burglarized

Frisco Grille in Columbia was burglarized early Monday, according to the Baltimore Beer Guy blog.

As a great American once said: "Savages."

Not sure about the damages, but check out the BBG blog for updates.

Frisco Grille & Cantina in Columbia

Beer is the key to the Frisco Grille and Cantina in Columbia. This is a classic Howard County spot -- a shopping center bay that looks anonymous from the outside, but has been tricked out inside with something special.

The special at the Frisco Grille is beer. Nineteen rotating taps of high-quality beers from craft breweries. Dozens of more labels in bottles. On Tuesday, there is trivia. On Wednesdays, there a "pint night" special with free glasses and the chance to meet the people who brew or sell the special beers.

Frisco Grille is a pub, which is ironic considering that it calls itself both a "grille" and a "cantina." There is a small bar and then tables scattered around the room. Televisions screens turned to sports and news. A menu that runs to "Cal-Mex" items like burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas and to sandwiches like a lightly fried chicken breast or fajita meat on a kaiser roll. This isn't a Top 10 restaurant. It's a pub menu where you go for the place and the beer, and you enjoy good food with a few highlights like superb onion rings, a unique spicy mustard, and an appetizer of risotto griddled into lightly-crisp pancakes. It's also a pretty modern pub menu that offers lighter fare like seafood and vegetarian options built on beans, spinach, and tofu.

But this isn't Great Sage. You can get a cheese-and-chorizo dip to accompany your beer and conversation. The draft beers change, but the electronic beer list recently included Dortmunder, Lagunitas, Bear Republic, Weyebacher, La Couffe, Clipper City and Brewers Art. That is probably a treasure trove if you're a beer aficionado, and The Baltimore Beer Guy writes often about the rotating options. But it's also fun if you're a neophyte who wants to taste a few beers before you order your pint. Frisco Grille has no pretentions. You can sample and explore.

(Update: Frisco Grille will expand in 2010 to take over the tailor next door. The Baltimore Beer Guy reports that they'll double the number of taps and build a bar in the new space. Also, Frisco has added new dishes on a "secret" side menu. I enjoyed Gus' Green Tacos -- firm white fish sauted in a mixture of tomatillo sauce and the house-made green hot sauce. It's

a nice taco, and I especially liked the mango salsa on the side. I always love food that surprises me. I don't know that I would have ordered tacos with a creamy sauce lined across them. But Gus' Green Tacos had a really nice balance -- littlecreamy, little lime-sour and just enough heat to be refreshing.)

(Update: Frisco Grille moved to Dobbin Road and became Frisco Tap House.  It's definitely work checking out.)

Frisco Grille is one of the best places for beer in Howard County along with The Perfect Pour's wall of beer and Victoria Gastro Pub, which also serves craft beers on tap at its bar.

Read more about Frisco in the Baltimore Beer Guy, Adventures in Baltimore Restaurants, or The Beer Advocate.

Frisco Grille & Cantina -- moved and became Frisco Tap House

8865 Stanford Bouelvard

Columbia, MD 21045

410-312-4907

NEAR: Frisco Grille is off Dobbin Road south of Rte 175 in a shopping center with Pub Dog. From the north, take Rte 175 and turn south on Dobbin Road at the intersection with a Chik-fil-A and a Kmart. The shopping center is on the left after the second light. From the south, take Snowden River Parkway and turn left on McGaw Road at the light with Apple Ford. Turn right at the light with Dobbin, then look for the shopping center on the right.