The beauty of a Korean meal is the array of flavors and dishes. A table might have spicy kimchi and tender vegetables, pickled radish and steamed egg, broiled meats and miso soup.
Bethany Seafood Restaurant in Ellicott City makes my list because it pulls off that array of flavors in a single dish -- dolset bi bim bop (or "bob" as Bethany calls it). The waitress brings a hot stone pot filled with rice, cooked vegetables, and some pieces of meat. Bethany's is my new favorite because the meat is actual slices of kalbi rib meat and because the hot pot browns the rice, which becomes crisp against the soft vegetables and tender, charred beef. With dollops of the spicy sauce, the bi bim bop becomes perfect.
(UPDATE: Bethany Seafood Restaurant has changed its name by late 2010 to Kimko.)
Bethany is a strikingly anonymous restaurant -- at least in English. It is hidden in the back of the Bethany 40 shopping center, and its English name appears just once outside the restaurant. Everything else is in Korean -- although the menu is completely translated and the waitresses were fluent and happy to answer questions.
But Bethany is friendly, and the food was exceptional. That dolset bi bim bop was better than the local gold standard
Shin Chon Garden because it crisped the rice and used kalbi instead of shredded beef. Shin Chon still serves a great meal and maybe even better panchan -- the half-dozen dishes that a Korean restaurant serves as appetizers/side dishes. They run from kimchi to pickled vegetables to little salads of tofu or potato. They're the variety that makes a Korean meal so entertaining, and Shin Chon serves tasty dishes that take real skill to season and prepare.
We only knew about Bethany because it is across the parking lot from Mirocjo, another Korean restaurant. Our friends, who are Korean and Chinese, said that they liked the place across from
Mirocjo, but they didn't know if it had an English name. Inside, Bethany is casual, and it has the nice touch that all of the tables are separate by wood and glass dividers. Everything is a little private. Some tables even have buzzers to call your waitress.
The irony is that I assume that I have missed Bethany's best dishes. Mrs. HowChow and I started with our basic Korean dishes to get a feel for the place. Our waitress plied us with an appetizer of soaked rice and then another appetizer of steamed egg. Then, we ate panchan, bi bim bop and a kimchi pancake. Everything was delicious, and the complimentary dessert -- a cold cinnamon tea -- was spectacular. We left stuffed and still carrying left-over pancake the size of a small pizza.
But it's the Bethany
Seafood Restaurant, and I need to go back for the fish. The waitress translated the Korean name as "Eel City Flounder Country," and there is both a sushi bar and a series of aquariums that show off how fresh your dinner can be. I have my eye on a pan-fried squid and on a cod and claim stew. "AJ K" on Yelp describes a
live lobster sashimi as shocking, but delicious. I'm not sure I'm up to live lobser, but I would love any recommendations if you have eaten at Bethany.
If you want to try Korean food, you can go to Bethany, Shin Chon or Mirocjo and get all your questions answered in English. It helps to eat beef and spicy food, but Mrs. HowChow and I ordered a successful meal for my brother and sister-in-law before they went to adopt my cousin that was mostly vegetarian and mostly mild.
I always recommend that you start with a grilled meat -- either kalbi (rib) or bulgogi (sliced beef). Then consider some options that seem very normal to an American palate: 1) the dolset bi bim bop described above (which can be served vegetarian and which people can spice individually if you don't mix the hot sauce into the serving bowl), 2) chapchae (a noodle dish that can come vegetarian and/or not spicy), 3) the Korean pancakes (savory pancakes with vegetables and/or seafood mixed into the batter) or 4) hwedupbap (sashimi fish served over a bed of rice and vegetables). Wikipedia had a great list of Korean dishes. The Cooking Korean Food blog has a recipe for hwedupbap, although it is different than I have seen served in restaurants.
Bethany Seafood Restaurant
10176 Baltimore National Poke #116
Ellicott City, MD 21042
410-480-1442
NEAR: On the north side of Rte 40 west of Rte 29. It is west of the Enchanted Forest shopping area. If you're driving west, you pass Enchanted Forest, then a wooded area, then a former 84 Lumber. Turn right after the 84 into the Bethany 40 shopping center. The entrance of Bethany Seafood is on the side that faces the lumber yard at the back. It is next to Bits & Bridles Saddlery. There is actually a back entrance to Bethany that faces Mirocjo's parking lot, but you enter down a long hallway. Don't let that turn you off.