|Pit beef sandwich from the first day of lunch service|
New kitchens come
on little Gat feet.
They come cooking
beside Route 100
starting with lunches
and then dinner's on.
With apologizes to Carl Sandburg, we can announce that Robert Gadsby has unveiled a new restaurant in the heart of Howard County. His team is doing it quietly. You might say they're creeping in like the fog.
The new menu kicked off today at lunch. The restaurant is Gadsby's Bar American. It's in the space that used to be -- and still has signs for -- Greystone Grill just off Rte 100 in the Columbia 100 development near Centre Park Road.
You can still get directions from the Greystone Grill Web site. The transition appears gradual. The new name and new lunch menu started today. I ate a pit beef sandwich, and I loved the horseradish sauce and the raw onion. I'd never put raw onion on a sandwich, even at pit beef stands where it is a basic condiment. I love when a kitchen shows me that I'm wrong. The onion and horseradish were crunch and bite on the thin-sliced beef, and I may never eat pit beef without onion again.
I'm sure it will take time for Gadsby to turn the restaurant into his own place. The bartender and a bunch of the servers seemed like long-time folks. I assume the dinner menu and signs will change over time.
But even the first lunch menu says that Gadsby is going to try to do something notable. The menu looks upscale American -- starting off with burgers, po' boys, pulled pork and other standards offering tweeks and specials like my horseradish sauce. Then, it runs through more-posh items like a warm potato salad with smoked salmon, a pasta with house-made fennel sausage, and slow-cooked lamb shank with mashed potatoes, carrots and wilted greens.
I ate from the nice selection of $8-9 sandwiches that makes Gadsby's an option for anyone. But they had a three-course lunch option that looks like fun -- $21 for a soup/salad, a pasta and a main plate. In the same vein, my server talked up the persimmon in one of the salads, and the lunch menu has five desserts and 14 wines. That's a place that wants to be special. It wants you to come for everything from a quick lunch at the bar to fancy meals for business or pleasure.
Give 'em some time to get the place working. My sandwich was absolutely worth the visit. There will be big expectations -- especially for a $21 lunch or its equivalent. I'd love for this to be a Restaurant of Big Shoulders.
If you haven't followed the prior posts in HowChow, Robert Gadsby is a chef with a high-end pedigree and a history in LA and DC. He has opened a terrific barbecue place on U.S. 1 in Laurel called RG's BBQ Cafe, and folks were talking about his taking over a restaurant in Maple Lawn. Hat tip to _____ for emailing me about the new menu.
(Update: The 2 Dudes met Gadsby when they had lunch at the new place. They talked to him and posted about the conversation.)
Gadsby's Bar American
8850 Columbia 100 Parkway
Columbia, MD 21045
NEAR: Gadsby's is the space that used to be Greystone Grill. It's just off Rte 100. From either Rte 108 or Rte 100, you turn onto Centre Park Drive. Then you turn onto Columbia 100 Parkway. Gadsby's is in the base of a small office building that backs against Rte 100.